Thursday, 24 March 2011

Welcome to Glasgow 3: Charing Cross station to Dalmarnock station

Welcome to my wee photoblog on Glasgow, where we feature the  joys and unjoys of walking and cycling through a fascinating, beautiful and often badly run city. For the blog's origin see the  'Introduction' post  -
An alphabetical list of all posts so far can be found at the end of this post.
 Today is 19 January, 2011 and we are going to walk from Charing Cross station to Dalmarnock station, passing through Glasgow Green and walking by the Clyde most of the way. We are walking with a friend Ian from the Ramblers - the walking group, that is - I am the other sort of rambler.

Here we are at Charing Cross station, 5 to 9, to meet Ian

'Glasgow: an array of Impressive Architecture for you to Enjoy'. Indeed, despite the fact that successive Glasgow councils have allowed some of the finest buildings in Europe to be destroyed or  to decay to shadows to their former selves - see

there is still a lot of impressive architecture to see. Come see it before it any more of it falls down or is burned down -

The Baby Grand is a Glasgow institution; the poster advertises  another sort of Glasgow institution, 'Scotland's premier lapdancing club'. For more on the charmful world of lapdancing clubs, see

And so we head off towards the river

Looking up St Vincent St into town; Whyte and Mackay building on left

Other side of St Vincent St heading west

The motorway bridge down there is incomplete. .

. . . a 'Bridge to Nowhere'. See

Now heading down  into Washington St

We think the figures may be handpainted

Looking back at Kingston Bridge. See

Now at the Clyde - we will be mostly beside the river for the rest of the walk

Some interesting looking graffiti across the road

Councilled - no idea what it means but it is unlikely to be a good thing

Water is wonderfully still

This is the Tradeston Bridge, opened 2009. See
The design didn't  take into account the probability that young Glasgow drunks would run up and slide down the fins. There have been a few accidents

Kingston Bridge to the west

View east, where we are heading along right

Looking back to north side of Clyde

Now strolling east through Tradeston, for which see

George V Bridge. See

We are now going to pass under the Second Caledonian Railway Bridge. See

Glasgow Bridge on right

If you're wondering where the first Caledonian Railway Bridge is,  the granite pillars on the right are all that remain. See

Now on Glasgow (or Jamaica) Bridge. See

You can just see reflection of Tradeston Bridge fins. . .

. . .here is close up

The inscription 'All That is Great Stands in the Storm' is from Plato's Republic - the inscription was done by Ian Hamilton Finlay and supporters c. 1990. See
From the seedbed site:
'Upon the Pillars of the Old Caledonian Railway Bridge over the River Clyde Inscribed,
  with a Quote from Plato’s The Republic and a translation by Heidegger,
 by Ian Hamilton Finlay and his Collaborators.


Fine Things are Hard

Waving to the ghost of Ozymandias,
the Hand of History finger-tips North,
pausing by the Bridge,
where two massive Legs of Stone are Being, washed
by the watery expanse.

Inscribed in the Stone, moss-strewn and barnacled, the Hand senses:

The Hand scratches its metaphorical Head.

And then, with infinite care, the Hand extends an accusative digit
at all who pass by, which seems to imply:
‘D’ye ken whit tha’s aboot?’


c.360 BC: Plato inscribes The Republic, Athens.
1818: Percy Bysse Shelley inscribes Ozymandias, London.
1878: William Arrol constructs Caledonian Railway Bridge over River Clyde, Dalbeattie granite. Arrol also indirectly involved in construction of Tate Modern Art Gallery and the Titanic.
1933: Heidegger uses his translation of Plato’s The Republic, 6.497d: ‘All that is great stands in the storm…’ as the final line of his inaugural address as Rector of Freiburg University, Germany. His address is followed by three salutes to the leader of the National Socialist Party.
Alternative translations include:
‘..all great things are perilous, and it is true, as the proverb says, that beautiful things are hard’ (Lindsay, 1906);
‘For all great things are precarious and, as the proverb truly says, fine things are hard’ (Shorey, 1935);
 ‘For surely all great things carry with them the risk of a fall, and, really, as the saying goes, fine things are hard’ (Bloom, 1968)
 ‘For all great things are dangerous, and, as the proverb has it, excellent things really are hard.’ (Allen, 2006)
1966-7: Railway tracks removed from Caledonian Railway Bridge.
c.1990: Ian Hamilton Finlay’s designs for the pillars inscribed.'

Looking back. Note Babylon Cafe. Glasgow has now quite a few restaurants selling Persian / Middle Eastern food.

Now in Carlton Place Glasgow's Star Club used to be here opposite the statue of the Communist heroine heroine La Pasionara the other side of the Clyde - see

Now at the fine (built 1853) South Portland St Suspension Bridge. See
The towers are the oldest surviving elements of the Clyde bridges

Many of the elegant windows are covered with what looks like lined paper - no idea why, but looks odd

Glasgow Sheriff Court. Many fags have been smoked on those steps

Now on Victoria Bridge, the oldest complete bridge on the Clyde (1854). See
From the bridge site:
'When the bridge opened in 1854, Glasgow had the two widest bridges in Britain – London's widest at that time was only 54ft. Victoria Bridge is built on the site of the first recorded bridge over the Clyde; a timber bridge believed to exist in 1285 and described as "Glaskow bryg, that byggt was of tre" in Henry the Minstrel's epic poem on Sir William Wallace.'

Gorbals St

Glasgow Central Mosque over there

Approaching the City Union Railway Bridge. See

I like the crenelations of the west here meeting the Islamic railings in peaceful co-existence

For the Albert Bridge see

Now crossing the bridge to get to Glasgow Green on right. For a post-High Court  walk from Saltmarket up there. . .

. . .down here into the Gorbals see

Looking back

The Salvation Army HQ and the old High Court. Charity and Justice in their fine old buildings

About to enter Glasgow Green - a wee vehicle approaching

Love the flag

Fare thee well, small chariot

The Old High Court

Now in the Green

For the arch and the fountain (so pretty in the snow) see

Nelson's Column (predates London's one)

For the Green in the summer see

The Pipe Bridge and Weir. See

Water still very calm under  the Pipe Bridge

The flock  of geese which are resident here look tame-ish but are feral it seems. For these geese and other birds to be seen here see

Boat House

The brewery chimney - visible for miles

Stitch of two pics here - has worked OK except for tapering chimney

 Ian is given a gander by a pair of geese

Before re-crossing the Clyde we are taking a detour to the People's Palace - I need a pee

For the Palace and Winter Gardens see

Retraced steps to take a longer perspective

The magnificent Templeton's carpet factory in the distance

Winter damage from the Big Freeze of 2011

For more on the terracotta fountain, the largest of its kind in the world, and on Templeton's, see

The Palace has a beautiful collection  of Shakespeare- themed tiles. . .

. . .in the toilets.

One of the nicest places to sit with a cup of tea in Glasgow

Another quick look at the fountain. . .

. . .and at more Freeze damage

Several years ago at 7 am on a Sunday morning I played one of a pair of   drunks throwing Brian Pettifer off this bench in a film called 'Donkeys'. Still haven't  seen the film and have not a scooby  if the scene survived.  Most of the movie scenes  I have been in have ended up being cut, or in some cases not even filmed. I was to have a fight scene in 'Neds' with another aged ruffian  but the scene was rained off. For some inexplicable reason I often get cast as a badtempered Glasgow drunk. See also

Let's go and have a look also at the home of the estimable Glasgow Humane Society, the 'oldest practical life saving society in the world'.  See

From the website
'We are a prevention / rescue / recovery group set up in 1790 to cover the waterways of the Greater Glasgow Area. We are based in Glasgow Green (address: Glasgow Humane Society, Society's House, Glasgow Green, '

Now at the elegant St Andrew's Suspension Bridge (1856). See

Pressing on

Crossing Ballater St

Now going to north side of river again over King's Bridgc. See

We'll be heading up there on the left

'Calling All Landlords'

Looking back

Now at Polmadie Bridge, built in 1955 of prestressed concrete. See

Dropping down under the bridge now - ground is icy

 You have to watch the loose dogs in any Glasgow park. Most are OK, but like the Polmadie Bridge some arrive prestressed

This is the wee bridge over the Polmadie Burn, which feeds into the Clyde

The Clyde calm prevails

Polmadie Burn

Now heading into Richmond Park

'Welcome to Hell!' Would be more intimidating without the exclamation mark. Note to graffiti addicts - sometimes less is more

This is the Model Yacht Pound

But no yachts today - the swans are in sole occupation

Like the geese by the Green they seem unfazed by our company. For pics of the Forth and Clyde Canal swans see

Swan on ice

A pigeon dropped by to have a chat with the swans. As they say in Glasgow, it was all doubtless Much A Doo About Nothing

We must say farewell to Richmond Park and its friendly swans

We have now emerged  from the Shawfield Drive entrance (busy busy with a wee digger and dumpster)

Directly opposite the entrance is Shawfield Stadium. A greyhound racing venue and formerly home to Clyde FC

Rutherglen Bridge. See

Our old friend the chimney still fuming away in the distance

Looking back

Cloud reflection is like mist rising from the river

Descending to the Clyde Walkway, now on the last Clyde stretch for us today

River so remarkably still. When we did the cycle out to Dalmanock from Glasgow Cross - see
I thought the Athlete's Village for  the 2014 Commonwealth Games was going to be here but it is not (we'll catch a glimpse of that area after Dalmarnock Bridge). What's planned for this strange wee outsider land of scrappies and circus caravans seems to be a country park, though there are wild cards possibly to be played -
which promises
. . .a '£35m biosphere-style animal park on the banks of the River Clyde, which is expected to have a humid Amazon jungle at its centre complete with primates, manatees and sloths.' It is possibly news to the planners, but Glasgow is full of primates already - and maybe even some metaphorical manatees and sloths

We're going to take a wee recce up these inviting steps

This is post-Industrial Glasgow

On the other bank - just to the left of the notice - is a heron in a tree. For the wildlife within  the Loop see

The Cunningar Loop is a sort of post-Chernobyl without the radiation. From the scops site -

'If a waste place is large enough, or has been left undisturbed long enough, it is amazing what a variety of wildlife can be found. In the 76 acres of Cunnigar Loop, in the east end of Glasgow, lies an area of deserted industry and mining surrounded by decaying warehouses and the River Clyde. Within this urban wilderness 116 different bird species have been recorded, including great crested grebe, hen harrier and green woodpecker; urban foxes nightly patrol for shrews, voles and mice; rich willow scrub provides nectar for bees and moths; butterburr, bulrush, celandine and the uncompromising giant hogweed vie to clothe the water's edge; a multitude of flies and midges offer a summer feast to swifts, skylarks, house martins and bats swooping low over the grassy vegetation; and larger moths and butterflies attract the eye of the observant naturalist. One of the more interesting of these is the elephant hawk moth, whose harmless caterpillar has alarmed even toughened building site workers. Both larva and adult are associated with the pink flowered rosebay willowherb, another alien interloper which has found conditions on wasteland to its liking and has spread throughout all British cities and much of its countryside as well. The adult hawk moth is an attractive pink winged species, perfectly camouflaged as it rests or feeds on its hosts large flower heads. The larva feeds on the leaves of the willowherb and is marked by two pairs of eyespots to deter would be predators. Once a comparative rarity, this moth has followed the march of its vegetable companion across Britain from the Surrey Docks to the Cunningar Loop.''

Here's a blow up of the heron

And here are a pair of cormorants in a neighbouring tree

You'll have to take my word for it but there is a fox up there on the left just past the lifebelt, trotting ahead

I think that's a scrappy for boats on other bank

This is the 2nd Dalmarnock Railway Bridge. Only the piers of the first remain. See

I have been a failed brickie (among many other failed things) but even I can see some clever brickwork here

A bench whereupon Commonwealth Games official in 2014  can come to  sit and exchange pleasantries with the gilded youth of Dalmarnock

Ian reads the wall

Dalmarnock Bridge ahead


On 11 September 2011,  the body of a murder victim  was burned on the walkway. From the BBC website:
'Two brothers have admitted murdering a man and dumping his burned body near a bridge over the River Clyde in Glasgow. Brian Faulds, 29, was found near Dalmarnock Bridge on 28 September 2011.'

Now at Dalmarnock Bridge. See
For its ghost see the Dalmarnock cycle ride referenced earlier

We are here

Now on bridge. . .

. . .and 'Welcome to Glasgow' again

We are walking up Dalmarnock Rd. We'll be back at some point soon (I hope) to photograph the Village area development

Over Dalmarnock Rd and down that street you come to Ardenlea St where a grandmother and some of her family resisted being evicted to make way for the Athletes Village. To enter real time briefly, I am typing this on 25 March and she was finally evicted just a few hours ago -

 It is also the street where Jeremy Paxman's great-grandmother lived in poverty

We are being diverted off Dalmarnock Rd into the right hand maze of fences

Celtic Park over there. See

The pleasingly named Mordaunt St

Now in Nuneaton St heading back to Dalmarnock Rd - Industrial estate on right

We have crossed over Dalmarnock Rd to Playfair St

Looking down Playfair St

Looks as if the Falcons Nest is doomed

Now in Poplin St looking back at Playfair St

'Delivering gas safely' well that's a relief

We have now swung right into Swanston St - Dalmarnock station in view at last

Down we go. For some reason I think of all the lives that have descended these stairs.

I am not resigned to the shutting away of loving hearts in the hard ground.
So it is, and so it will be, for so it has been, time out of mind:
Into the darkness they go, the wise and the lovely. Crowned
With lilies and with laurel they go; but I am not resigned.

— Edna St. Vincent Millay

The faded lettering on  the old arch says  'NO ENTRY' - fair enough

Partick, please

Feel free to drop me an email with suggestions, offers of £20 notes etc. The address is

For previous posts see

Bad Posters
Bellahouston Park
Bellahouston Park 2 : After the Pope is Over
Botanic Gardens
Bridgeton Cross
Buchanan St
Burrell Collection
Cessnock / Kinning Park
Churches (Working/ Non-Working), Temples Mosques etc
Citizens Theatre
City Centre
Climate Change Demo
Clydebank 1
Clyde River Festival
December 2010: Dusk, Dark and Dawn
Edwin Morgan
Evolving Odeon
Festivals and Fetes
Forth and Clyde Canal 1
Forth and Clyde Canal 2
George Square
Glasgow Cross and Argyle St
Glasgow Green: the 2010 Scottish Junior Run
Glasgow North-West By-election 2009
Glasgow Piping Festival
Glasgow's Sikhs
Gorbals 2
Gorbals 3: Saltmarket to Tradeston
Govan Underground to Ibrox Underground: 40th anniversary of the Ibrox Stadium Disaster
Grow Glasgow
Hampden Park: Dundee United v Ross County Cup Final 15 May 2010
Hidden Gardens: Glasgow Harvest at Tramway
Hillhead / West End
Hunterian Museum
 Kelvinbridge Railway Station: the 'Re-opening'
Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum
Kelvingrove Park
Kelvingrove Park: Sledging
Kelvingrove Park: the Fountain Vandalised
King's Theatre to Glasgow Cathedral: a November Walk
Lobey Dosser day
Charles Rennie Mackintosh
Mela 2008
Mela 2010
Paddy's Market: the Last Day
Queen's Cross and Firhill
Red Road Flats
Red Road Flats 2
Red Road Flats 3
Ruchill Park
Save Otago Lane 16 October 2010
St Enoch Centre
Schipka Pass down, and a walk through Barrowland
 Sighthill Stone Circle
Sighthill Summer Solstice 2010
Sighthill Towers Before the Fall
Sighthill Towers After the Fall
Single Parent: Trials of an Extra part 2
Swingergate Day 2: Tommy and Gail Sheridan on Trial
Swingergate Day 11: 'How's He No' Gettin' Drapped Aff?'
Swingergate Day 28: A Large Pinch of Salt
Swingergate Day 37: Andy Coulson doesn't slip up
Swingergate Day 45: Waiting for the Verdict
Swingergate Day 46: the Last Day
Swingergate: Sentenced
Taggart: Trials of an Extra part 1
Tommy Burns Tribute
Alexander Greek Thomson
Alexander 'Greek' Thomson 2: the Egyptian Halls Part 1: the Interior
Alexander 'Greek' Thomson 3: the Egyptian Halls Part 2: the Interior
Townhead to Duke St St to George S
Welcome to Glasgow: the Dalmarnock Rd
Welcome to Glasgow 2: the Yoker Rd
We're Not being paid Enough For This: Trials of an Extra Part 2
West End Festival 2010

Reviews of Scotland: 1000 Things You Need to Know


'I love it - I'm giving this copy to a friend and buying another for myself' - Darren Adam, Presenter, Radio Forth, 17 November 2008

‘It’s a great wee book’ – Stephen Jardine, introducing Edwin Moore on Scottish Television’s Five-Thirty Show

'A fantastic book' - Scott Wilson , talk 107 Breakfast Show host (see In Memoriam talk 107)

'A great read' - Dougie Jackson, Drivetime host, Smooth Radio 105.2


'Despite its apparently humorous format, this is a serious and extensive dictionary on all things Scottish; from Jean Redpath to Lorne sausage, from Flodden to the Corries. Is particularly good on history and minutiae. There's a useful chapter on famous Scottish legal cases and another on literature. Excellent' - Royal Scottish Legion, Feb 2009

'This is the ultimate Scottish reference book' - Waterstones Christmas catalogue, 2008

'This is a fascinating look at the history of Scotland: its languages, politics and great achievements, from its origins in the ancient landmass of Laurentia 400 million years ago, to devolution and Billy Connolly. Edwin Moore has collected a thousand important facts about this beautiful country, covering Scottish history and culture, correcting misconceptions, and examining the mysteries of haggis and bagpipes with insight, warmth and impressive attention to detail' - The Good Book Guide, November 2008

'This is a recipe for revealing how horribly ill informed you are about your country. Although, if you are skillful, you can nod sagely as you read some new fact and mutter 'Ah, yes!' as if recalling the information from your excellent schooling. Where else will you find a real recipe for making haggis from scratch side by side with a potted biography of David Hume; a section of the Declaration of Arbroath and the curiously touching fact that Lulu was only 15 when she had a hit with 'Shout'? The whole thing is of course, silly - but oh so addictive.' - Matthew Perren, i-on Glasgow, December 2008

'. . . well crafted and witty' - Bill Howatson, Aberdeen Press and Journal, 18 October 2008

‘While most of Edwin’s entries are entertaining and scholarly – he writes like a Scottish Bill Bryson – it is when he takes an interest in the backwaters of history, the details lost down the back of the sofa, that he is at his best’ – Jack McKeown, The Courier, 27 October 2008

'History, it is said, is written by the victors. Trivia, meanwhile, is written by the guys with the smeared spectacles and the breathable rainwear. The first discipline is linear and causal; to quote from Alan Bennett’s play The History Boys, history is “just one f****** thing after another”. Things look different, though, when viewed through the prism of trivia. The past is reduced to one big coleslaw of fascinating facts that in their randomness tell a more mixed-up tale entirely.
The first approach leads to big, frowning books by the likes of Tom Devine and Michael Fry. The latter results in small, cheerful books such as Scotland: 1,000 Things You Need to Know, Edwin Moore’s valiant attempt to navigate the more trivial contours of enlightenment and clearances, crown and parliament, dirt and deity.
Moore proceeds from a sincere and controversial first principle: Scotland is really a rather pleasant and interesting place. . .As a work of popular scholarship, though, it’s in a different league to the Scottish novelty titles that get stocked next to the bookstore tills as potential impulse purchases, those little handbooks of parliamo Caledonia and regional braggadocio, such as Weegies vs Edinbuggers.' - Allan Brown The Sunday Times, 21 September 2008

'In his book, Scotland: 1000 Things You Need to Know, Edwin celebrates all that sets us Scots as a race apart - our language, law, flora, food, and of course, our people. From our poets, architects and inventors, to our artists, entertainers and fighters. But he doesn't shy away from the more unpleasant aspects of our history. . .' - Robert Wight, Sunday Post, 14 September 2008

‘We think we know all about William Wallace, Robert the Bruce and the Union of the Crowms. However, according to Edwin Moore, author of , Scotland: 1000 Things You Need to Know, we’re still in the dark about many aspects of our history and culture. . . The Big Issue looks at 20 of the most astonishing examples of secret Scotland.’ – The Big Issue, 18-24 September 2008

'What's the connection between Homer Simpson and Larbert, and why are generations of lawyers grateful to a Paisley snail? Need to know more? Author Edwin Moore has gathered 1000 facts like these about Scotland in a quirky new book. Brian Swanson selects a few favourites. . .' - Scottish Daily Express, 13 September 2008

'The palm for Christmas-stocking books seems to have passed recently to popular science, with best selling titles every year such as Why Don’t Penguins’ Feet Freeze? This year there has been a gallant attempt at a historical fight back. Scotland: 1,000 Things You Need to Know(Atlantic Books, £12.99) asks (and answers) such post-turkey questions as ‘How many kings of Scotland died in their beds?’, ‘Who on earth decided that the Declaration of Arbroath was the cornerstone of modern democracy?’ or ‘Why is iron brew spelled Irn-Bru?’ Mark Mazower,History Today; The Best of History in 2008, December 2008

'A real treat for the serendipitous Scotophile' - Reginald Hill

FROM THE INTERWEB (on the new paperback edition)
Book of the Month, May 2010
'Whether it's Scottish lochs or Enlightenment philosophers, the facts of the devolution referendums or the mysteries of Irn-Bru, myths will be debunked and truths revealed in this light-hearted but rigorous overview of Scottish history and culture.'